Cesky Krumlov | BPV2023

May 21 -22:
Český Krumlov &
the Wachau Valley

After Prague, we headed directly south to our next destination. Deep in South Bohemia, at a sharp curve in the Vltava River, we arrived at charming Český Krumlov. With winding cobbled streets lined with shops and cafes, the city exuded medieval coziness.

After a tour of the castle and an overnight stay in the Old Town, we continued southeast into Austria, stopping at Melk Abbey. We then enjoyed a relaxing, scenic cruise down the Danube River. At port, we met Petr with our tour bus, and off to Vienna we went.

May 21: Český Krumlov

Compact Český Krumlov

Český Krumlov defines the phrase "quaint European town in a river bend". Historic sights, cobbled streets, red-roofed houses, a gently flowing river...the town was made to be photographed.

Cobblestones and Cookies

After our tour, we strolled around the town, looking in shop windows and snacking. Lindsey got a "traditional" trdelník, which Jana had earlier assured us was not traditional Czech fare, but Hungarian. Either way, it was a treat: a cake cone filled with cinnamon apples and topped with whipped cream. We also bought some gingerbread cookies at Český Perník, a bakery recommended by Jana. Lindsey got a cookie in the shape of the Rožmberk rose, the symbol of the area's longtime ruling family.

Group Photo!

With the town as our backdrop, the setting was right for a group photo!

Rožmberk Bears at Český Krumlov Castle

In a dry moat at the castle's entrance, we spotted the famous Rožmberk bears. In a practice started three centuries ago, keeping bears at the castle was originally intended to play up the Rožmberk family's ties to the noble Italian Orsini family, whose name derived from the Italian word for "bear".

On our tour of the castle's interior, the guide showed us some bear-skin rugs. We learned what happened to the bears when they die.

Český Krumlov Castle

Sitting atop a hill at the very edge of the Vltava River, the castle looked like a fairy tale. Sadly, photography was not permitted inside the castle. The over-the-top rococo paintings in the Masquerade Hall were a delight. A Viennese artist painted masquerade scenes on the walls, and our castle guide pointed out where the artist had inserted himself among the frolicking troupe, as a spectator watching the show. Another room held the Golden Carriage, designed to carry an aristocratic member of the household to the Vatican. Words cannot capture the opulence of this conveyance. In short, it was really something.

Bridge View of Český Krumlov Castle

After dinner, a group of us stopped to admire the view from the bridge leading back the the hotel. The air was crisp and bats zigzagged overhead. We caught this shot as the sun had almost set.

May 22: Wachau Valley (Melk Abbey and Danube River)

The Wachau Valley was pleasant pastoral interlude between cities. Melk Abbey, situated on hill above the tiny town of Melk, was quiet yet imposing. We found it hard to believe that there were only about twenty monks currently in residence at this enormous facility, as our abbey guide told us. As a former castle that was gifted to the Benedictine monks, the abbey seemed outsized for its purposes, but it was beautifully maintained. Unfortunately, photos of the interior were not allowed, as we would have loved to take pictures of their impressive Baroque library filled with old manuscripts.

After the tour, we made our way to the dock, where we boarded a ship bound for Krems. On our cruise, we saw castles on hilltops, tiny towns hugging the water's edge, and acres of vineyards. Our guides told us the vintners grow Riesling and Grüner Veltliner grapes here, as well as apricots.